Australian Fashion Week has now wrapped, and I thought it might be fun to do a very quick (and unserious) review of some of my favourite looks from the week, as well as share some key trends that I noticed which we’re likely to see trickling into stores later this year.
I did share a little context about the purpose of Australian Fashion Week over on my website here, but TLDR; it’s an industry event primarily for buyers, media & stylists to showcase a brand’s upcoming S/S or Resort collections.
Carla Zampatti
I thought we could start with the first show I attended - Carla Zampatti. To me, it was such a special full circle moment to get to attend, as I wore one of Carla’s designs from her 2014 A/W collection when my husband and I got married. The show opened with a short film which to me seemed to be a nod to the late Carla Zampatti’s heritage, with the focus on a supersized medallion necklace. This emblem was ever-present in the collection, which we also saw translated as statement earrings.
My personal favourite look from the show, was the sheer pencil skirt with matching open blouse (in a variety of faded pastels). There’s a real dichotomy between the style and the fabrication chosen, which reads as pushed, modern, intriguing. And I’m curious to see how this style translates for consumer. Personally, I’d love to see the skirt with a detachable lining, as that would make for some really interesting layered moments.
Another look I loved, heroed a dramatic cape like top with floor sweeping length which were pared back with chic fluid drape trousers.
And of course, the crisp tailoring with structure. A white midi dress with side slits paired over matching trousers and belted at the waist for shape, and a black dinner jacket with asymmetrical button closure.
Acler
The Acler show was fun, bold, vibrant, marking the brand’s tenth birthday and also the reveal of their debut accessories line. The bags in particular were what caught my eye. Circular designs in both small and large scale, and mini beaded bags reflective of the colour palette of the season. Every piece felt like it went back to the brand’s roots; from the fun colour palette (not just my personal neutral toned faves - ha!), organically shaped buttons, designs which convey a sense of sculptural beauty and lots of pleating.
The peach and pink layered organza dress was probably the piece that felt the most fun to me (the movement, the detail!). But my personal favourite looks incorporated a sense of tailoring which was dialled down with denim. The muted sage/grey blazer with cinched waist with open back modernised the classic wardrobe staple. The white sleeveless blazer with exaggerated/wide shoulders. The white maxi which was fitted at the waist with a full skirt. And the final look - that sheer top with silky skirt reminded me it’s time to pull out my shoulder pad sheer top from Tibi in the same vein.
Karla Spetic
Karla Špetić’s new collection. I mean, wow. Her through line of beautiful sheer and intricate lace pieces was complemented by deconstructed jackets and dresses. Her inspiration: Japanese Cult Cinema. There’s this sense that everything is a little undone, and contrast came in to play through the use of print throughout her collection.
My favourite piece from the collection were the blazers, which leave the wearer open to how they want to interpret wearing it. The sleeves and the collars are designed to be detached allowing a sense of personalisation. I also loved the dark romance of pairing a sheer lace bodysuit with a full taffeta skirt; the mood of which I think can easily be recreated if you’re shopping your own wardrobe.
Beare Park
I loved the intent behind the designs for Beare Parks upcoming collection. Clothing for the modern woman that you can actually move in. Luxurious, but effortless. The colour palette centred around neutrals with moody accent shades.
If there’s one look that made me *gasp*, it was that sheer maxi length dress with the drop hem. It felt refined; the devil being in the details. The way the neckline cuts right across the shoulder. The movement through the skirt. I also loved the tonal burgundy look, and the way that the styling achieved a sculpted feeling by layering a fitted knit tank over a slim sweater. And the liquid silver skirt - wow. I’ll be recreating that look with a longline blazer and black boots for winter.
Blanca Studios
My final show of the week was Blanca, one I was really excited for as the brand has always held this real “ready-to-wear” mindset. Clothing that doesn’t feel precious, and plays on silhouettes with a sense of ease. Their resort collection, titled ‘Jardin’, drew inspiration from lush gardens; the adventure, the long lunches, the sun setting as conversations draw into the night. And you can see how those worlds collide. Vibrant floral lace, punchy sequins, and high shine animal prints.
Though perhaps my favourite interpretation, was the quite literal embellishment of black beaded roses on denim. A statement making basic, and the piece I have my eye on for when the collection lands (so chic styling with a white shirt as per the show, but would also look great with a black tank, a fitted blazer I wear on occasion, a simple crew neck sweater etc etc). I also adored the opening look; Blanca tend to play up the oversized/relaxed element of tailoring, and the texture on this suit took it to the next level. Also, the grey blazer with puffy popcorn tiered skirt was another stand out.
Albus Lumen
Titled ‘Rebellion’, the Albus Lumen Resort 24/25 collection marked the start of a new era for the brand, where older pieces were reworked into new designs. A theme of rebirth, in which older pieces and designs were up cycled, reconstructed, re-dyed.
I’ve popped the looks I was really drawn to from this collection, but overall, it was more the styling themes and the tone of the collection that captured me. The soft, worn blazer that’s cinched at the waist with multiple tie-dyed belts. The way a dress is transformed into a tunic, to reveal a full length skirt underneath. Mixing an everyday basic like a tee with a sheer drop hem skirt - a great example of friction and visual interest.
Bec+Bridge
With a nod to ancient techniques of metalwork, silver accents were a huge theme across this resort collection. The opening look of the show, a fitted collared shirt with silver foiled bust cups, gave a hint at what was to come. Tailored jackets which pinched in at the waist, spliced denim, and slinky off shoulder tops. And of course, the usual suspects that the brand is known for. Dresses with artful draping that hugged the body’s form, which in retrospect seem to have a bit of a Grecian nod with a modern touch (cut out at the back).
Standouts for me were the molten silver beaded embellished straight leg trousers, and that lovely butter yellow dress with contrasting burgundy sash at the waist.
Viktoria & Woods
Celebrating its 20th birthday, and debut runway, Viktoria & Woods hit two major milestones this year. The resort collection was a reflection of the brand’s core offering, while also embracing the spirit of evolution (evidenced by the “club ready” look that featured as part of the collection). Tailoring, of course, being a mainstay.
For me, the standouts were the colour palette; a beautiful persimmon red shirt dress which had me thinking about layering possibilities (imagine this styled half undone, over a simple column skirt). The grey suiting; timeless, classic. And the semi-sheer two piece set (that movement!).
Anna Quan
A food court is an unlikely place for inspiration to strike, but it was the visuals of light bending in a water feature, and the sense of calm it emanated that served as the base for Anna Quan’s Resort 25 collection. Translated into this collection through the use of clever fabric manipulation and skilfully designed prints. We’re also treated to the debut of denim, which the designer had felt that until now, she’d been unable to execute it to her standards.
As someone who’s often joked they never met a polka dot that they didn’t like, the black low waisted dress with contrast polka dot tiered skirt was a personal favourite. Also loving the lace pieces (which I’d wear over a little slip for modesty), and the longer slimline silhouettes which are contrasted with a burst of full volume at the hem.
TRENDS FOR SPRING/SUMMER
I’m no trend forecaster, so take these with a grain of salt. But, there were some of the commonalities I picked up on across the shows (many of which I think you can lean in on without buying anything new, too!).
Sheer | This was a big one, and felt like a strong overarching theme for the season ahead. I think we’ll see this toned down commercially, with slips, for a more wearable option. You could also play with styling, utilising layers to create that sense of visual intrigue while still playing up an element of sheer.
Top buttons only | I’ve been using this little styling trick to breathe new life into some of my tried and trued staples, and saw it reflected on the runway too which indicates that it’s going to be something we’ll be seeing a lot more of. Basically, you leave the button few buttons loose, to create this open, relaxed silhouette.
Summer layering | Think tanks layered one over the other (or over matching coloured knits), skirts under dresses, skirts over dresses, shirts under shirts etc. Playing up the styling with sheer, lightweight fabrications.
Denim reimagined | For many of us denim is one of the most reached for pieces in our wardrobes, and for summer many designers reimagined this style staple through print, embellishment/distressing, and spliced with other fabrications. My favourite examples of this were the molten metal studded pieces from Bec+Bridge, and the black beaded floral jeans from Blanca.
Long & lean | Many of the proportions skewed long and lean; maxi length in dress with a slim silhouette through the body. Quite often this was also complemented by wispy, silky fabrics with lots of movement to them.